Ver versión en Español aquí.
I’ve always found theater plays enjoyable, whether drama, comedy, or musicals. A few years ago, during one of my Christmas trips to my homeland, the ‘pastorelas’ sparked fond childhood memories. Then, I remembered one of the long-standing item on my bucket list: The ‘Pastorelas of Tepotzotlán‘ , renowned as Mexico’s finest pastorelas.”
Attending one of these plays also meant an opportunity for my children growing up in Canada 🍁 to reconnect with the roots and folklore of my beautiful Mexico. Tepotzotlán is about 45 km from Mexico City airport (AICM) and that day, the airport taxi was less expensive 😮 than the Uber or Didi applications.
What is a Pastorela?
A ‘Pastorela’ is a traditional Nativity play depicting the journey of Mary, Joseph, and the shepherds to Bethlehem. This folkloric theatrical genre has roots in 15th-century Spain and thrived, particularly in Mexico and other Spanish-speaking nations. These performances are a traditional part of the Christmas season. They are frequently staged in schools, churches, and theaters, affirming the true meaning of the Christmas spirit.
What makes unique the ‘Pastorelas of Tepotzotlán’?
Having a rich history spanning over half a century, the ‘Pastorelas of Tepotzotlán‘ stands as one of Mexico’s oldest and most esteemed plays, renowned for its exceptional quality and authentic portrayal. These theatrical performances are held at the ‘Hostería del Convento,’ situated adjacent to the ‘Viceroyalty National Museum,’ and have evolved into a beloved folkloric-tourist attraction in Tepotzotlán during the Christmas season
Featuring music, traditional dance, humor, and satire, these shows frequently take playful jabs at contemporary figures, politicians, or social situations. Understanding the humor and satire often requires being current on current affairs. Some of the lines I remember made reference to “Only hugs, not bullets*!” (phrase from the current presiden), and Lucifer complaining about being a victim of “fuel theft“(huachicoleado : fuel theft from the national oil company).
The plot
The ‘pastorelas’ usually represent the story of the birth of Jesus but in a more folkloric style. The plot revolves around a group of shepherds who embark on a journey to visit the Baby Jesus in the manger.
Throughout their journey, the shepherds face obstacles and temptations presented by the devil or his minions 😈, who try to prevent them from reaching their destination. Divine intervention, usually through Gabriel the Archangel or some saint, helps the shepherds overcome these difficulties and finally get the manger.
Asking for shelter
At the end of the performance, the entire public was invited to participate in the tradition of “asking for shelter” (Pedir Posada). This is one of the traditional acts in every home during pre-Christmas celebrations to reenact Mary and Joseph’s search for refuge on the nights before Jesus’ birth.
For this act, participants are divided into two groups. One is representing the pilgrims, asking for shelter from the hosts. Initially, the hosts refuse, suspecting them to be thieves. After several rounds of sung verses, they are eventually allowed in, where they are welcomed with food and drinks.
This brief reenactment symbolizes the search for a safe and hospitable place for Mary and Joseph before the birth of Jesus, making it a deeply meaningful way to celebrate Christmas.
Música, comida, piñata y pirotecnia
The Pastorelas of Tepotzotlán offer more than just a theatrical play; it’s a folk-gastronomic-theatrical-Christmas experience. Admission includes dinner, live music, a piñata, and a fireworks display 🎆. A warm welcome with a typical ‘Christmas Ponche’* drink (a warm fruity drink) and live music played by folkloric bands precedes the arrival of Mariachis performing the upbeat ‘Son de la Negra‘ piece. 🎻
Right after the play was over, the waiters quickly set up the tables and begin serving the Mexican food: pozole, pambazos, tamales, buñuelos, champurrado, home coffee known as ‘café de olla’* and Mexican candies.
Music and fireworks created a unique atmosphere; my kids were excited with the popular fireworks known as ‘Burning of the Bull’ (Quema de Torito) which was roaming around at the rhythm of the ‘Silverio Pérez’ ( a popular bullfighting theme) tune.
Finally, the piñata 🪅 came for all the children that jumped into for collecting most of the typical candies and fruits of a Mexican piñata. The piñata was brought out by the “Three Wise Kings” for all the children, who eagerly hit it in turns until they broke it open. They scrambled to gather as many traditional candies and fruits from a Mexican piñata as possible
About the actors of the play
The performance usually features several well-known actors from both television and theater in Mexico, along with the participation of the local community in the roles of shepherds.
In 2021, León Michel played Tereso the lead shepherd, Sergio Ochoa played the archangel Gabriel, Luisa Muriel gave life to Lola, Tereso’s wife, and Julio Casado played Lucifer, adding a humorous touch to the performance.
As for the play itself, it lasts approximately 90 minutes, but with dinner included, the event extends beyond 3 hours.
Some tips before you go
The “Pastorelas de Tepotzotlán” is a seasonal play, typically running for one or two weeks before Christmas. So, I suggest purchasing tickets online well in advance.
The entire event takes place at the atrium, an open-air venue. Therefore, come prepared for weather conditions. Since it is outdoors, no cushion seats but foldable chairs and seating stands.
Admission in 2021 was around $900 Mexican Pesos including dinner.
While there are several parking options nearby, including street parking, it’s advisable to arrive ahead of time. Tickets were not numbered, so getting there early and queuing up will secure you a better seat.
Tepotzotlán holds the distinction of being designated as a ‘Magical Town.’ In Mexico, the government initiated this category in 2001 to recognize towns with exceptional cultural richness and the potential to attract both national and international visitors.
I highly recommend spending the day in Tepotzotlan and exploring other tourist attractions nearby. One of them is the ‘Viceroyalty National Museum,’ which is just adjacent and enjoy a meal at one of the local restaurants.
We find ourselves amid the Christmas season. I wish you all to relish these festivities brimming with love, hope, and unforgettable moments.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 2024!
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I would also like to invite you to read my previous post: ‘Visiting the ‘HMCS Haida’: The Most ‘fightingest’ Canadian Ship.‘
Your opinions, comments, likes, and shares are greatly valued.
EO
